Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
